Step 17: Attach the KS230 to the switch boxĬarefully tuck the wires back into the switch box and push the KS230 into the box, then attach with the provided screws.Ĭonnect the provided faceplates. Holding the wires, test each wire nut to ensure it is properly and safely secured. Using the provided, or physically attached wires, match to labeled wires and connect with provided wire nuts. If present, label it with the ground label. This wire is typically insulated green or may be an exposed copper wire. That wire is the Ground.Įach switch box may or may not have a ground wire present. *Note: You may also have a green or copper wire present. Iabel the remaining wire in the 2 nd switch box as Load. For instance if you label the red wire in one box Traveler 1, then the red wire in the other box should also be labeled traveler 1. Make sure to label the the same wire at both ends. Now you will want to label the traveler wires in both switch boxes. Once located place the neutral label on one of the wires. The Neutral may be a single wire, or cluser of wires and is typcially white wire. Once it is, place the Line label on the wire. Use the non-contract voltage tester once again to ensure the wire no longer has power and is safe to handle. Now that you know which wire is the Line, return to the breaker box and turn the power back off. Please remember this switch box requires the neutral wire to be present. This energized wire indicates which wire is the line and which switch will be installed in that swtich box. You will want to restore power to the switch boxes, and then use the non-contact volt tester to find which wire is energized. Step 8: Test wires for power to find the Line wire Return to the breaker box and turn the relevant circuit breaker back on. We recommend placing wire nuts on the exposed wires for enhanced safety purposes. Remove your existing switches from the wires. If a Neutral wire is not present on the line side, the KS230 cannot be installed. The KS230 does require a Neutral wire to be present at the Line side of the 3-way run. The possible wires are the Ground and Neutral. The 3 mandatory wires are the 2 traveler wires and the line/load wire. *Note a Live wire typically has black or red insulationĪ 3-way switch will have 3 mandatory wires and 2 possible wires. Using the Non-Contact voltage tester, check each wire to make sure it is not energized. Take a picture of how the existing switch is wired for future reference. Pull the switch from the wall and take a picture of how the switch is wired, for reference, in case you ever want to reinstall the existing switches in the future. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the switch to remove from the wall. Step 2: Remove the existing switches from the wall Remove the faceplates from the existing switches. Step 1: Remove faceplates from existing switches After shutting off the breaker, test the switch before proceeding to ensure the power is off. You will only need to shut off the breaker that controls the 3-way switches you are replacing. Locate your home’s electrical panel and shut off the relevant circuit breaker. (3 nuts are provided but you may need more) Insulated Philips and Flathead screwdrivers.Contact a licensed electrician for assistance. This can be dangerous, so if you are not comfortable with basic electrical wiring do not attempt to install.
When looking at the bottom of the switch, I see that there is a copper (i think it is) attached to the screw, which touches the metal junction box.*Note: Before installing the KS230 please remember that you will be working with your home’s electricity. You can see that the hot wire and neutral wire come out of the same area.
Kasa smart switch install update#
UPDATE 2: Please see image 3 onward for updated photos with the copper cut at the back of the junction box. Does this mean that the box is grounded and the switches are grounded as they are connected to the box? UPDATE: okay, I looked harder and saw that there is a copper wire attached to a screw that the back of the junction box (and is cut with no extra copper wire). Is this correct? The junction box is metal. I read a grounded wire is not needed if your switch is plastic. Do I leave this wire as is and surround the nut around this wire with the KASA wire? The bottom black wire actually hooks around and then connects to another light switch to the right. If this is a black hotwire, this would go into the black KASA wire. Is the top black wire a hot wire or a ground wire? This seems to be going to the same area as the neutral. I currently have two black wires (one stabbed into the switch and the other is wrapped around the bottom screw on right side).
Kasa smart switch install install#
I started to install my KASA smart switch but when I opened the unit I wasn't able to find a ground wire.
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